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The Evolution of Fashion Shows: From Mannequin Parades to Global Phenomena

Fashion shows, one of the initial and most enduring forms of marketing in the fashion industry, have left an indelible mark on the world of style and entertainment. In this post, I will explore the origins of fashion shows, their evolution over time, and their enduring influence on the fashion industry. These captivating spectacles not only showcase clothing but also play a pivotal role in shaping trends, creating excitement, and connecting designers with their audience.

A Pandora, or historical fashion doll,  was an important medium for conveying new silhouettes. Circa 1760-1770, from Victoria and Albert Museum
A Pandora, or historical fashion doll, was an important medium for conveying new silhouettes. Circa 1760-1770, from Victoria and Albert Museum

The First Fashion Shows

Modeling as a profession found its roots in 1853, thanks to Charles Frederick Worth, widely known as the "father of haute couture." He introduced his wife, Marie Vernet Worth, as the first model for the clothes he designed. This marked the beginning of a significant shift in how fashion was presented. Instead of designers reaching out to clients directly, designs were showcased through a 'defile,' a simple presentation without music.


Marie Vernet, a French woman and the first model of History
Marie Vernet, a French woman and the first model of History

During the early 19th century, British designer and innovator Lucy Duff-Gordon played a pivotal role in shaping the fashion industry. She introduced the "mannequin parade," a precursor to the modern fashion show, and trained professional models to walk in an exaggerated catwalk style, accompanied by scenic backgrounds, lighting, and music. These shows were initially held in Maison Lucile in Hanover Square, where the elite of London would be treated to tea and a showcase of models.


A Lucile mannequin parade in the garden of the London Lucile Ltd at Hanover Square, 1913. Source: Lady Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions
A Lucile mannequin parade in the garden of the London Lucile Ltd at Hanover Square, 1913. Source: Lady Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions

Lucile's clever marketing techniques lured women into buying more dresses than they could afford, pioneering the international business model using fashion shows to launch her collections worldwide.


The Birth of Fashion Weeks: A Spectacle of Style and Innovation

Fast forward to July 19, 1943, when the first-ever "fashion week" was born, known as New York Fashion Week. It emerged during World War II, primarily to provide fashion buyers with alternatives to French fashion, as travel to Paris became impossible due to the war. Each season's presentation demanded a reimagination of the fashion show, including the setting, music, lighting, and choreography. The hefty investments in these shows turned them into "visual spectacles." Still, at their core, they retained the essence of presenting new collections.


Magazines like Vogue replaced fashion illustrations with portraits of models showing off the newest styles during the Fashion Week. Getty Images
Magazines like Vogue replaced fashion illustrations with portraits of models showing off the newest styles during the Fashion Week. Getty Images

The Fashion Capitals and Beyond

Today, the most prominent fashion weeks occur in the fashion capitals of the world, New York City, London, Milan, and Paris, collectively known as the "Big Four." Over the years, fashion weeks have become international events, capturing the attention of millions worldwide as designers unveil their latest collections. However, recent times have seen the role of the runway show questioned. Factors such as the rise of social media, sustainability concerns, and the global pandemic have shifted the focus towards digital fashion weeks.


Shanghai’s First Digital Fashion Week Successfully Embraces Social Distancing in 2020, Getty Images
Shanghai’s First Digital Fashion Week Successfully Embraces Social Distancing in 2020, Getty Images

The Ongoing Transformation of Fashion Shows

Fashion shows have evolved from humble beginnings to global phenomena, transcending their role as mere presentations of clothing to become a source of entertainment for all. As fashion continues to adapt to cultural changes, one thing remains certain: the allure of the fashion show endures, perpetually captivating the world with each new collection and artistic presentation.


Fashion shows are still today an important part of the marketing model of fashion brands, but they have had to be reinvented to follow the rapidly changing landscape of consumer preferences and technological advancements. They continue to serve as a powerful platform for brands to showcase their creativity, connect with their audience, and set the tone for the ever-evolving world of fashion.


 

Sources

- Kent, Jacqueline C. Business Builders in Fashion. Internet Archive, Minneapolis: Oliver Press, 2003, www.archive.org/details/businessbuilders0000kent/page/23/mode/1up. Accessed 21 Oct. 2023.

- Klerk, Amy de. “The Fascinating History of the Catwalk Show.” Harper’s BAZAAR, 10 Mar. 2021, www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/a35783366/history-catwalk-show. Accessed 21 Oct. 2023.

- Krick, Jessa. “Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1895) and the House of Worth.” Metmuseum.org, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Oct. 2004, www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm. Accessed 21 Oct. 2023.

- “Lucy Duff-Gordon – Women Film Pioneers Project.” Wfpp.columbia.edu, Columbia University, www.wfpp.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-lucy-duff-gordon. Accessed 21 Oct. 2023.

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