The concept of fashion and its role in defining what is desirable and trendy has a long history. Even in the Middle Ages, it was the aristocracy and the royal family who made waves with their fashion choices.
Fashion Status in the Middle Ages - Symbol of Status
The public display of wealth through clothing became a customary practice in Europe during the late thirteenth century. This made it relatively easy to assess a person's social class. Clothing was not merely a means of self-expression but a powerful tool for social distinction, often exploited in class conflicts to gain an advantage. It symbolized one's culture, propriety, moral standards, economic status, and social influence, thereby shaping social relations and reinforcing class differences.
Men and women had to adhere to sumptuary laws that regulated not only clothing but also food, beverages, furniture, jewelry, and more. These laws aimed to control people's behavior and provided specific guidelines for permissible goods to maintain the social hierarchy. Violations were met with severe penalties, including fines, property loss, loss of titles, and even death in extreme cases.
Middle-Class Fashion in the Middle Ages
As the middle and merchant classes began to amass significant wealth, the hereditary aristocracy sought ways to differentiate themselves from these new affluent people. Urbanization further complicated social interactions, prompting the need for quick methods to identify people from different classes and solidify the connection between appearance and entitlement. In the 13th century, only the king was legally allowed to wear a scarlet rain cape; in 1356, Florence made it illegal for women to have clothing buttons without corresponding buttonholes; and in 1363, the English Parliament decreed that linen in the summer could be worn only by knights and clerics with substantial incomes.
Status through Fashion In The 21st Century
While the display of social standing through clothing remains relevant, it has evolved into a more subtle and eclectic form. Dress codes continue to shape work, leisure, social interactions, ethnic identity, and religious expressions. Higher social status is often signaled by designer clothing, impeccably tailored garments, the use of luxurious natural fabrics, and the choice of accessories such as jewelry. Additionally, attributes like perfect white teeth, a toned slender physique, smooth skin, and a stylish hairstyle also serve as status symbols in the current century.
Shared tastes, behaviors, and qualifications often define one's position in society and create a sense of shared identity, much like social class does. In nine studies conducted by Princeton University, people consistently rated the competence of individuals based on their upper-body clothing. Clothing perceived as "wealthier" led to higher competence ratings, a reflection of how attire can influence others' perceptions of one's abilities, potentially posing challenges for low-income individuals.
The "trickle-down effect," where fashion trends flow from the upper class to the lower class in society, still holds true. Individuals with high social and cultural capital often serve as trendsetters, and when new consumer products initially enter the market, they are typically expensive and affordable only to the wealthy. However, as these products mature, their prices decrease, making them accessible to a broader audience.
Conclusion
Throughout history, clothing has served as a powerful symbol of status, reflecting the social and economic dynamics of its time. In the Middle Ages, the aristocracy and royal elite wielded their wardrobes as instruments of distinction, using sumptuary laws to codify their elevated positions. These laws not only regulated attire but also shaped behaviors, maintaining the rigid class structure.
In the 21st century, while the essence of using clothing to convey social standing endures, its expression has evolved. Today's fashion landscape is characterized by subtlety and diversity, with designer labels and grooming standards taking precedence. Yet, the trickle-down effect from the upper echelons of society to the masses remains a prominent influence on fashion trends.
Moreover, clothing extends beyond aesthetics; it influences how others perceive competence, potentially affecting individuals' opportunities and social mobility. Shared tastes and appearances define not only fashion but also identity, clothing remains a dynamic symbol of status, one that reflects not only where we come from but where we aspire to be.
Sources
Bourdieu, Pierre. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. 2023. London, Routledge, Taylor & Francis Group, 1984.
“Economic Status Cues from Clothes Affect Perceived Competence from Faces.” Princeton School of Public and International Affairs, Princeton University, 9 Dec. 2019, https://spia.princeton.edu/news/split-second-clothes-make-man-more-competent-eyes-others . Accessed 21 Sept. 2023.
“Fashion Rules: A 14th Century Knight’s Livery | StJohns.”, University of Cambridge, www.joh.cam.ac.uk/mens-fashion . Accessed 21 Sept. 2023.
Giorgio Riello, and Ulinka Rublack. The Right to Dress : Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, C. 1200-1800. 2023. Cambridge, United Kingdom ; New York, Ny, Cambridge University Press, 2019, pp. 7–16.
Harvard Law School. “Sumptuary Laws for Those Deemed “Other.”” Exhibits.law.harvard.edu, http://exhibits.law.harvard.edu/sumptuary-laws-those-deemed-other . Accessed 21 Sept. 2023.
Hunt, Alan. Governance of Tne Consuming Passions : A History of Sumptuary Law. 2023. London, Macmillan ; New York (N.Y, 1996.
Wilson, Laurel Ann. “A Reappraisal of Medieval European Sumptuary Law.” The Medieval Globe, vol. 2, no. 2, 2016, pp. 141–165, http://muse.jhu.edu/article/758508 . Accessed 21 Sept. 2023.