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Celebrating Four Centuries of Fashion Influence

For centuries, the world of fashion has been driven by evolving influences that shape trends and styles. From the nobles under the reign of Louis XIV of France in the 17th century to the rise of Instagram influencers in the 21st century, the landscape of fashion has witnessed remarkable transformations that reflect the shifting preferences and values of society. 


As a designer, comprehending fashion marketing and influences is a vital key to unlocking my creative potential. Understanding the past helps me navigate the present and chart the future. This knowledge empowers designers to pay homage to the iconic elements of the past while infusing innovative ideas. The history of fashion influences is not just a chronicle of the industry's growth; it's a treasure of inspiration, insight, and innovation. 


The Era of Courtly Influence (17th Century)

In the 17th century, under the reign of the Sun King, Louis XIV of France, the nobles of the country congregated at the opulent palace of Versailles. The emergence of boutiques and the advent of fashion journals like "Le Mercure Galant" in 1678 marked the first steps towards disseminating their fashion to the emerging middle class. However, the rapid translation of these styles to fashion plates and their subsequent adoption by the bourgeoisie prompted courtiers to swiftly move on to newer trends.



Fashion supplement of Le Mercure Galant, 1678, France (Paris), etching and engraving. Location: Victoria and Albert Museum collection, London
Fashion supplement of Le Mercure Galant, 1678, France (Paris), etching and engraving. Location: Victoria and Albert Museum collection, London


The Reign of Marie Antoinette and Fashion Plates (18th Century)

During the 18th century, especially during the reign of Marie Antoinette in France, fashion plates depicting the latest styles became the primary method of marketing fashion. These plates not only showcased clothing designs but also the essence of the era's aesthetics and attitudes.


1785 fashion plate depicting a woman wearing a green and blue dress designed by Rose Bertin, Marie Antoinette’s stylist 
1785 fashion plate depicting a woman wearing a green and blue dress designed by Rose Bertin, Marie Antoinette’s stylist 

Charles Frederick Worth and the Birth of Haute Couture (19th Century)

In 1858, Charles Frederick Worth established the House of Worth in Paris, earning him the titles of "the father of haute couture" and the "first couturier." He revolutionized the traditional dressmaker-client relationship by having clients seek his guidance on what was fashionable. Worth's name regularly graced the pages of fashion magazines, turning him into a celebrity in his own right.



An illustration of a Worth evening gown from Harper’s Bazaar, 20th January 1894
An illustration of a Worth evening gown from Harper’s Bazaar, 20th January 1894

The 20th Century: The Rise of Celebrity Influencers

The 20th century brought with it the era of celebrity fashion influencers. Icons like Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, and Madonna left indelible marks on fashion with their signature styles. These celebrities inspired millions with their glamorous attire, plunging necklines, fur wraps, oversized sunglasses, and iconic accessories.



Madonna during the Blond Ambition Tour wearing a Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra corset
Madonna during the Blond Ambition Tour wearing a Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra corset

Before the turn of the 21st century, the fashion media landscape primarily consisted of fashion magazines that heavily relied on advertising from luxury houses. Figures like Anna Wintour, the iconic editor-in-chief of "Vogue" magazine, played pivotal roles in shaping fashion journalism. Wintour's keen eye for fashion made her one of the most influential figures in the industry.



Anna Wintour in the front row of the Fashion Week
Anna Wintour in the front row of the Fashion Week

The Advent of Fashion Blogs (21st Century)

The 2000s marked the emergence of fashion blogs, which provided consumers with personal diaries on the internet. These blogs not only created online communities but also served as platforms for fashion education. The rise of digital media in fashion education and business was undeniable, as bloggers began to influence the industry significantly.



Susanna Lau, The original London fashion blogger who launched Style Bubble in 2006 - Photo by Forbes
Susanna Lau, The original London fashion blogger who launched Style Bubble in 2006 - Photo by Forbes

The fashion industry took a dramatic turn with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. Brands temporarily halted traditional modeling productions and shifted their focus to influencer marketing. Influencers, previously confined to the digital realm, found themselves in the front rows of fashion shows, signaling a clear shift towards catering to the digital sphere. This transition aimed to connect with a new generation of consumers and was met with varying degrees of acceptance among fashion houses.


Olivia Palermo: A Leading Fashion Influencer in 2023

In the current landscape of fashion, Olivia Palermo stands as one of the most prominent fashion influencers. Based in New York City, she rose to prominence through her appearances on the MTV television show "The City." With 7.7 million Instagram followers and appearances on the covers of renowned fashion magazines, Palermo embodies the power of digital influence. Her recent walk on the runway of the Dior Fall fashion show at Paris Fashion Week in a striking yellow and black plaid suit exemplifies the profound impact of influencers on the modern fashion industry.



Olivia Palermo, Fashion Influencer - Getty Images
Olivia Palermo, Fashion Influencer - Getty Images

The history of fashion influences is a captivating journey that has transitioned from courtly dolls and fashion plates to the digital realm, where influencers like Olivia Palermo wield considerable power in shaping the industry's future. As society continues to evolve, fashion will undoubtedly adapt and be influenced by the prevailing trends of the time, ensuring its perpetual transformation and innovation.


Sources

- “Fashion History: Fashion Influencers Who’ve Influenced Fashion.” American Fur Council, 25 Aug. 2018, www.fur.org/fashion-history-fashion-influencers-whove-influenced-fashion. Accessed 27 Oct. 2023.

- Franklin, Harper. “19th Century | Fashion History Timeline.” Fitnyc.edu, 2018, www.fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/19th-century. Accessed 27 Oct. 2023.

- Walker, Cameron. “Selling Style I: The History of Fashion Marketing through the 19th Century | Wilson College News | NC State University.” Wilson College News, 24 May 2019, www.textiles.ncsu.edu/news/2019/05/selling-style-i-the-history-of-fashion-marketing-through-the-19th-century. Accessed 27 Oct. 2023.

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