Fashion, a timeless form of self-expression, has always been intertwined with society's evolving notions of gender. What we wear has not only reflected our identities but has also played a pivotal role in shaping and challenging cultural norms. In this exploration, I embarked on a fascinating journey through the history of gendered fashion, from its humble beginnings to its present-day transformation into an arena of boundless expression.
The Genesis of Gendered Clothing
The concept of distinct men's and women's fashion is a relatively recent development in history. In earlier times, individuals from similar social backgrounds often sported similar attire. Clothing back then was more about showcasing one's status than adhering to gender-specific styles.
The catalyst for the divergence in fashion between the sexes emerged during the Renaissance. The introduction of the set-in sleeve technique, along with the incorporation of multiple buttons, allowed for greater versatility in men's and women's apparel. This innovation paved the way for the emergence of unique styles that set men's clothing apart from women's, ultimately giving rise to the gendered system of dress.
From the late Middle Ages through the 20th century in Western Europe, it became customary to associate skirted garments, with a few exceptions like the kilt, with feminine attire, while breeches and trousers were deemed male attire. Additionally, "shifting erogenous zones," a theory suggesting that women selectively exposed specific body parts to attract men, played a role in fashion evolution based on gender.
The Return of Gender-Fluid Fashion
By the 1950s, men's fashion had become rather uniform, characterized by conservative business suits and ample silhouettes. However, the 1960s ushered in a wave of social movements that challenged established norms, fashion included.
A new generation of men started pushing back against the rigid boundaries of traditional masculinity. Influential figures like Mick Jagger, Prince, Jimi Hendrix, and David Bowie embraced feminine fabrics, bold prints, and more effeminate silhouettes, opening up a world of gender-fluid dressing. Simultaneously, women began breaking free from the constraints of gendered fashion. The fearless women of the 1920s and '30s had already fought for more masculine styles, shedding long hair, corsets, and skirts, and their legacy continued into the '60s.
Today, in Western societies, the rigid binary categorization of gender is gradually giving way as Gen Zers and Millennials challenge societal norms. Gender fluidity in fashion is gaining momentum, moving out of the shadows to become more inclusive across the gender spectrum.
We now witness an increase in gender-fluid collections designed without specific gender distinctions in mind. These collections avoid categorizing items, colors, prints, patterns, or fabrics as strictly male or female. For instance, the British Fashion Council recently announced the integration of menswear and womenswear at London Fashion Week. Designers such as Gaurav Gupta are crafting genderless collections featuring transgender models, while public figures like Jonathan Van Ness and Lil Nas X are pushing the boundaries of menswear.
Empowering Women Through the Evolution of Gendered Fashion and Gender Fluidity
As a woman, this exploration into the history and evolution of gendered fashion holds particular significance. It serves as a testament to the resilience and strength of women throughout history who challenged the constraints placed upon them by society, often through the very clothes they wore. Understanding how our predecessors fought for the freedom to express themselves through fashion, breaking away from prescribed gender roles, empowers us to continue shaping our identities without being confined by outdated norms.
Moreover, the resurgence of gender-fluid fashion offers a breath of fresh air in a world that is increasingly embracing diversity and inclusivity. It opens up new avenues for self-expression, allowing women to transcend traditional boundaries, explore unique styles, and boldly assert their individuality. This journey through the evolution of fashion and its connection to gender offers not just a glimpse into the past but also a promise of a more liberated and inclusive future, where women can continue to shine as authentic selves.
Sources
- Andersson, Eva. “Presentation given at the Conference “Developments in Dress History” at Brighton University December 8th-10th 2011.” Brighton University, 8 Dec. 2010, www.academia.edu/1473555/Presentation_given_at_the_conference_Developments_in_dress_history_at_Brighton_University_December_8th_10th_2011. Accessed 5 Oct. 2023.
- Nast, Condé. “The Best Gender-Bender Rock Stars of All Time: Jay Z, David Bowie and Other Famous Frontmen Who’ve Worn Women’s Clothes.” Vogue, 15 July 2014, www.vogue.com/article/jay-z-kanye-west-pharrell-tomgirl-dressing-celebrity-style. Accessed 5 Oct. 2023.
- Oram, Alison. “Experiments in Gender: Women and Masculine Dress.” English Heritage, www.english-heritage.org.uk/learn/histories/women-in-history/experiments-in-gender. Accessed 5 Oct. 2023.